I’ve been wondering for a while if there’s a beach in Sardinia where I could be completely alone. There are so many of them here, some inaccessible from the mainland, others can only be reached on foot, but you can’t get there by car. So I started thinking – is there a truly private beach here that I could have all to myself? The chances might not be high, but it’s worth a try!
Does here really exist private beach?
It’s not that I mind human company on the beach, but it was more of a challenge – to find a place where it’s just me, the sea, and the sand. So I started checking the maps of the coastline near where I was staying and came across the beach Cala di Oddoana. According to the map, it could only be reached by bike, which I was quite happy about. The idea of arriving there on two wheels and enjoying my private oasis was really exciting to me.
So I had a goal – a place I’d discover, and at the same time, combine the useful with the pleasant. I’d actively relax, do a little sport, and finally enjoy the privacy of the beach. Well… at least that’s what I thought.
The night before leaving, there was a concert in the city, and alongside it, a small festival – carousels, stalls, basically fun in full swing. Of course, I couldn’t resist, and we stayed there, I don’t even know until when. But about everything you can experience in Orosei during the summer – whether there are concerts, what attractions, and so on – I’ll tell you another time. Now, let’s get back to that ‘private’ beach.
How to get there? Rent an e-bike? And how?
When I planned my route to Cala di Oddoana and found out I’d be facing almost 600 meters of elevation – and that’s just one way – I immediately realized this wouldn’t be a leisurely bike ride on flat terrain. The area is quite hilly, so I knew I’d face the same amount of climbing on the way back. That wasn’t fun anymore, so I decided to rent an e-bike instead.
And where, you might ask? In such a small town, you wouldn’t expect e-bikes to be available for rent, but surprisingly, we found two rental shops right away. Of course, we had to try both. But let me tell you about one of them, where the owner was an absolute cool guy – open, friendly, and exactly the kind of person you’d chat with, even though you originally just wanted to quickly grab a bike and go.
You message him on WhatsApp, and he doesn’t ask for any deposit. Well, at least he didn’t ask for one, so I didn’t push for details. On his website, you can check out what bikes he has, and all you need to do is send him a photo of the one you want, and he’ll let you know if it’s available on your dates.
Whats the name of that rental shop? Sandrovagando. Web HERE.
What bike did I choose?
I chose a trekking e-bike that he recommended to me. He said it would be perfect since I was sure most of the route would be on asphalt. It had thinner tires, something between a regular trekking bike and the ones used by cyclists in the Tour de France. The advantage? Less resistance, so the ride would be smoother and faster – exactly what I needed.
I took his advice, and it was a great choice. Of course, the bike also had front suspension, so no problem – a comfortable ride was guaranteed.
We met at the shop around 8:30 AM so I could pick up the bike and pay. For the day, it cost me €35, which seemed like a totally fair price for an e-bike for the whole day. I returned it in the evening when I got back to town, so I definitely got my money’s worth.
The crazy ride could begin, how and where is it going?
At around 9:00, I set off towards the town of Cala Gonone.
Now, a few words about this place. Cala Gonone is a small harbor town on the eastern coast of Sardinia, known for its stunning surroundings, cliffs, and crystal-clear blue sea. It’s the starting point for boat trips to iconic beaches like Cala Luna and Cala Mariolu. On top of that, it’s surrounded by the Supramonte mountain range, so here you get a mix of sea, rocks, and greenery – simply a feast for the eyes.
First obstacle – almost 600 meters of elevation uphill.
But before you start enjoying the beauty, you’ll face the same challenge I did – almost 600 meters of elevation uphill. And trust me, even with an e-bike, it was a real workout.
That’s exactly why you rent an e-bike, which will help you with that. It’ll be tough either way, but also a lot of fun. Once you reach the top of the hill, which is also the road where cars drive, you’ll enjoy an amazing view – mountains, sea, basically everything Sardinia has to offer.
But when you look at the display and see how much battery you have left after all that uphill riding, a bit of panic sets in because you’re about 2/3 of the way there. You still have the whole way back ahead of you. So, you start conserving the battery and go on minimum power for the rest of the journey. You’ll only use the power for the smaller uphill sections that are still ahead, and hope you make it back without running out of juice before you get to the base of the hill. Luckily, the way back down is mostly downhill, so you’ll survive, just in case.
You’re soaking in the beautiful nature all around you, and suddenly, you realize everything you’ve overcome. That hill, those elevation meters, and even pushing yourself – it all makes sense now that you’re at the top, enjoying the view. But there’s still the treasure awaiting you, the reason for this journey.
Arrival in the town of Cala Gonone
When you arrive in the town, of course, you’ll check out the harbor – but why not explore the surroundings too? This beautiful town deserves a bit of your attention.
But have you remembered the most important thing? Be sure to take enough water, not just to avoid overheating in the hot weather, but to keep your energy up and not collapse under the sun. And don’t forget sunscreen! Sardinia can get pretty scorching in the summer, so make sure the sun doesn’t catch you off guard. And, of course, don’t forget some food, because you’ll need to replenish the energy you burn on the journey.
The cursed road to Cala di Oddoana
If you’re as naive as I was and think you can ride your bike all the way to the beach, I have to disappoint you. Somewhere along the marked route on the map (see the photo), you’ll reach a cliff where the road ends. And even though it may seem like you could keep going, the path becomes inaccessible for a bike. You’ll have to continue on foot through the forest and rocks.
But don’t worry, it’s not the end of the journey – there are bike stands where you can easily park and secure your bike. Below you lies Spiaggia di Cala Fuili, one of the more interesting beaches Sardinia has to offer. It’s almost carved into the cliffside. Even though you leave your bike at the stand, the beach is still close by – you just have to continue on foot. It’s about a 3.5 km walk through the forest.
From above, you can admire the stunning turquoise water, so clear that you can hardly believe you’re seeing it in real life. When you decide to head down, remember that there are steep steps – there’s no other way. It’s quite challenging, but it’s all worth it once you find yourself in the valley.
But don’t forget – it won’t be just about relaxing. After a while, you realize that what you descended, you now have to climb back up. So, you begin your journey back, this time up the other side of the cliff, where a forest and the continuation of your hiking adventure await.
Of course, if you’ve read the previous part, you know that this is a great combination for those who love both cycling and hiking. It’s a “double adventure” for anyone who wants to experience as much as possible – and boredom is definitely not on the agenda.
After about 28 km on the bike, you now have roughly 3.5 km on foot through the forest ahead of you. The path follows rocky, well-trodden trails that can be a bit challenging in places. Along the way, you might come across a few people, but be prepared – I only encountered one couple who seemed a bit lost out there.
What equipment to have and what to expect from the hike?
Prepare yourself, as this part won’t be a “walk in the park” – at times, it will be quite challenging. Didn’t forget your power bank, did you? You’ll need your phone for navigation to make sure you’re on the right path and don’t get lost in the forest. After about 3 km, an even steeper descent awaits you, so watch every step carefully.
You might have weak signal there, so I recommend downloading offline maps for this area. Instinctively, you’ll know you’re on the right track because when you look into the forest, you’ll see your path leading in the right direction. Continuing all the way to Cala Luna would be off course – you can get there much more easily, but about that another time, now our destination is Cala di Oddoana.
Arrival to the destiantion – Cala di Oddoana
After going through all of those boulders and obstacles, you finally reach the beach, where around noon, you’re greeted with this view – a beautiful bay with turquoise water and sand stretching into the distance. And what’s that? You see a few people. And suddenly, you’re thinking, “Wait, wasn’t this supposed to be a private beach?” But something tells you that in this area, “private” beaches aren’t that easily claimed. Give it a minute.
And don’t worry, they’ll leave soon, and you’ll get your moment of solitude. The beach is about 20 meters wide, tucked between rocks, and suddenly, you’re completely alone. You can enjoy every moment – swim in the beautiful turquoise water, sunbathe, and just listen to the silence and the sound of the waves gently lapping at the shore.
In the distance, you see the town of Cala Gonone, where you stopped along the way, and you realize it was quite a challenge and a long journey. You let your feet rest in the water because there’s still the way back ahead of you. And even though it’s going to be tough, you know it was all worth it.
Around 3:00 PM, you decide to head back because you know you never really know what awaits you on the way back. You walk through the forest and head back towards the beach Spiaggia di Cala Fuili. At the end (or rather the start of the trail), you find your bike, which is so heated by the sun that the seat feels like a stovetop burner.
Journey back home
Your water is running out, and you’re starting to feel hungry, so you stop at a local shop and grab something to eat. I picked up some ham, water, and a sweet treat – a refreshing Ichnusa lemon, kind of like our radler, but Italian. You’ve got to have a little refreshment on the way back home!
When you finally look at the hill you have to climb again to get to a better path and continue almost on a flat road, you start having mixed feelings about it. As you reach the base of the hill, that’s when I turned on the e-bike assist, since there wasn’t enough battery left.
Several times near the end, I got the warning that the battery was completely drained, but then, mysteriously, it recharged (probably via the dynamo, I don’t know) by a few percent, and I managed to get up the hill. At the top, the battery was completely dead, but I had made it.
The whole way back, I rode like as on a regular bike, which was quite tough. If you’ve ever ridden an e-bike, you know it weighs 25-35 kg because of the battery and construction, while regular bikes weigh around 10 kg. So, basically, you’re pulling and pedaling with a much heavier weight, and you feel it with every kilometer.
Random photos
Random photos
Really drained e-bike, stupid problems
On the way back, I took the same route, and as you might have noticed, I went along a bumpy road, which was actually a ‘shortcut’. And since the bike was built for roads and not rocks, I ended up breaking a plastic part that was responsible for keeping the chain in place when shifting gears. So, my ride got a bit complicated, and the chain fell off several times, but luckily, it could be temporarily fixed, and I eventually made it back to the town. But it was a brutal ride.
The chain fell off a few times, and the last 5-8 km of the trip back felt endless. Fortunately, it was mostly downhill, so I was coasting most of the time, but mentally, it was quite challenging. If there’s one thing certain about this journey, it’s that this bike definitely isn’t suitable for rough terrain, and vice versa. If you rent the same or a similar bike, make sure you stick to the road.
It’s really not recommended to go through rocks and rough terrain if the bike isn’t built for such conditions. In that case, it’s better to stick to the asphalt and enjoy a smooth ride without unnecessary problems.
Finally, back home, completely exhausted, but what an adventure it was!
I arrived in Orosei around 6:30 PM, returned the bike, explained to the guy what happened, and that it was fine and that he could fix it. I paid 35€ for the bike rental, he gave me special soap for the oil I had all over my hands from the chain, and I headed home, satisfied. What a trip that was! A totally awesome experience, even though there were a few complications, it was definitely worth it. Who would have thought that a simple e-bike rental would lead to such an adventurous ride!
But the e-bike experience doesn’t end there! In the next part, I’ll tell you about another shop where you can rent bikes, but this time mainly mountain bikes. I’ll also share places and beaches where the terrain is more challenging, and that’s exactly why mountain bikes are more suitable. So make sure to subscribe to the newsletter so you don’t miss the next part, and don’t forget to follow me on Instagram! There you’ll get all the updates and more adventures right at your fingertips.
Flying Easterner
Cross your boundaries – that’s where the treasure you’re seeking is hidden.
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