Conca e su Mortu

Conca e su Mortu: Riding Sardinia’s Wild Trails and 1 Unexpected Concert

How did our cycling adventure on company bikes continue? Well, first of all, we were “lucky” enough to land in the town of Orosei. Why is that lucky, you ask? Because even though it might seem like “the middle of nowhere” at first glance, we actually found ourselves surrounded by a surprising abundance of natural wonders. One of them? Conca e su Mortu.

Whether we headed south or north, we always ended up on beautiful beaches. Go inland a bit, and you’ll hit hills. Push a little further, and voilà – you’re in a national park. What kind of national park? Well… let’s just say a very random one. The kind that barely looks like a national park at all.

So… Where Did We Actually End Up?

On the way to Conca e su Mortu, we didn’t come across any official entrance, no visitor center, no welcome signs. Just endless fences and “No Entry” signs that made us feel more like trespassers on private land than nature explorers. This peculiar “park” is called Parco Naturale Orma Therapy, though the vibe was way more “restricted military zone” than “natural wellness retreat.”

The road just kept going, so… we just kept going. No questions asked.

Inside this so-called “park,” we found rounded rock formations sculpted entirely by nature – no human hands involved, just thousands of years of wind and water erosion. The surrounding terrain looked like tiny deserts, with skin-toned brown rocks, barely any vegetation, and here and there a lonely green tuft of grass fighting for survival.

These formations are typical for Sardinia, where limestone and sandstone dominate the landscape, slowly carved by erosion into bizarre shapes. Some rocks looked like strange statues, as if a forgotten sculptor from the Bronze Age had left them behind as a cosmic prank.

Parco Naturale Orma Therapy

It took us about 45 minutes to bike there from the town of Orosei — roughly 12 kilometers of smooth sailing. I wasn’t alone, and as you know, when the company’s good, the pedaling feels easier. Just a chill afternoon ride, nothing too extreme.

We hadn’t explored this direction before, but the photos looked promising, so we thought — why not? We had the morning and lunch shifts, which meant we usually finished work around 3 or 4 PM. Perfect timing for a quick rest and then a spontaneous ride out. To COnca e su Mortu.

Eventually, we hopped on our bikes around 4:30 PM.

Our goal? A rock that looked like the face of some ancient tribal chief. On Google Maps, you’ll find it listed as Conca e su Mortu, which loosely translates from Sardinian as “the head and the dead.” And honestly — as we got closer, it really did look like a giant stone face staring out into the wild.

The road there, though, turned out to be longer than expected. Why?

(If you’re curious where exactly it is, you can check the map HERE.)

What’s the Deal with Those Rock Formations?

There’s no marked trail leading to these rock formations, so getting there required a bit of an adventurous spirit. Even from the main road, we spotted stone shapes that looked like petrified dinosaurs — nature really went wild here.

We managed to get up close to one of these bizarre formations, but it wasn’t exactly a walk in the park. A one-meter-high stone wall stood in our way — nothing too dramatic, but if anyone had imagined a comfy stroll, this was their wake-up call.

Since we were riding company bikes, we didn’t want to risk them getting snatched. So we parked them off to the side and locked them up tight — better safe than sorry.

After that, we were free to explore — climbing rocks, taking in the views, soaking up the silence and raw beauty all around us. Once we’d had our fill, we moved on toward our main destination: Conca e su Mortu.

Dinosaur
Frog?
Hill
Spider

Conca e su Mortu – the goal

In the photo below, you can see roughly where we left our bikes and the path we took from there. Just a heads-up — if you’re planning to go, brace yourself for a bit of wilderness. You’ll be climbing over rocks, pushing through bushes, and occasionally stepping over a fallen tree or two.

Oh, and speaking of survival tips — don’t forget the bug spray. Sardinian mosquitoes are absolute savages, and unless you want to be the main course at a bloodsucking banquet, better spray up before the journey begins.

Parco Naturale Orma Therapy
Parco Naturale Orma Therapy
Parco Naturale Orma Therapy
Climbing over the rocks
Parco Naturale Orma Therapy
Somewhere in the parc

Now let me show you how to actually get there — where we roughly parked our bikes and which path leads up. There’s supposed to be a little gate, but to be honest, I didn’t really trust it at first, so I didn’t even bother taking my phone out.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a full picture of it, but I did find one photo that shows the steep path going up, so you can get a better idea.

If you decide to go, look for that gate and the steep trail heading uphill. It’s not too bad — the fence (at least at the time) wasn’t exactly Fort Knox, and getting through it was no problem. Just follow the incline, keep an eye on the map, and eventually you’ll reach a small clearing with a gorgeous view.

Parked bikes
That steep hill and part of of the Gate
On red point you can park bikes and follow the path

And what next?

From the clearing, you’ll spot a small pond down below. From there, just keep heading uphill. After a while, veer slightly to the right and start looking for a way through the trees — they grow so densely, it’s like nature decided to build a green wall.

But don’t worry — somewhere (as shown in the photo below) there’s a spot where you can squeeze through or hop over. If you pick the right path, you’ll land on a kind of “trail” that leads you straight to the main attraction — Conca e su Mortu.

By the time we finally got there, it was already after 7 PM.

Luckily, the sun was no longer blazing and the temperature had dropped to something way more comfortable, making it the perfect moment to just stop, breathe, and soak in the atmosphere.

Jazierko
Conca e su Mortu
Conca e su Mortu
Conca e su Mortu

Rolling Home, One Pedal at a Time

We took the exact same route back — just in reverse. But it wasn’t your typical “let’s go home” ride. Along the way, we bumped into some donkeys and cows casually roaming around, living their best life. We stopped for a bit, caught our breath, enjoyed the moment, and then hopped back on our bikes to head home.

I get it — the ride back felt tougher. The fatigue kicked in, and on top of that, we were now going uphill. And let me tell you — doing that on a single-speed bike, designed more for chill city rides than mini-mountain treks, was a real workout. But hey, nothing we couldn’t handle.

Castello di Pontes

On the way back, we noticed a lonely castle sitting atop a small hill — Castello di Pontes.

This medieval fortress stands near the village of Galtellì, perched on a limestone ridge about 175 meters high, overlooking the Cedrino River Valley. Built in the 11th century by the Judges of Gallura, it once protected key routes between Sardinia’s eastern coast and its rugged inland areas. In the 14th century, it was conquered by the Aragonese crown and remained inhabited until the 15th, after which it was abandoned.

The castle is surrounded by legends — especially those about its last known lord, Baron Guiso. According to local tales, his ghost still haunts the ruins, while his family is cursed to wander the underground tunnels forever. Nobel Prize-winning author Grazia Deledda even referenced these stories in her novel Canna al Vento, giving the castle a kind of literary immortality.

Today, only fragments of the walls and a single tower remain, but the views? Absolutely breathtaking. The trail leading up is surrounded by wild vegetation, and along the way, you might stumble upon old lime kilns and other remnants of history.

Castello di Pontes

What happened the next day? Well…

Summer in Full Swing

Okay okay, just kidding — I will tell you now.

So, once upon a time, there was a guy named Lamborghini. You might know the name from some small-time company he started… you know, building tractors. Later, they also dabbled in luxury supercars. Ring a bell? Well, that guy had a son. And that son had a daughter — her name? Elettra Lamborghini.

Today, she’s a full-blown Italian TV personality and singer, known mostly from Spanish and Italian reality shows.

And while she doesn’t design fast cars, the Lamborghini name is still shining — just in a slightly different spotlight. And guess what? She showed up in person in Orosei, headlining a local concert. A bunch of artists from all over Europe performed before her, but she absolutely stole the show as the grand finale.

The place where the concert was
Elletra Lamborghini in person

What do I think about it?

Honestly? I’d never heard of her before, and her music isn’t really my thing. I’m more of a fan of her husband — Afrojack, that Dutch DJ guy. Now he knows how to throw a real party.

The concert, like many events of this kind, took place in an open field. And right next to it — in the other field — there were rides, bumper cars, and all those classic funfair attractions.

The whole thing had this quirky vibe — totally different from your typical city concert. I felt like I was on a proper holiday. After the show, we just sat down, chatted, and soaked in the evening like true vacationers.

Whats up Valerio

A few days later, I decided to set off on a solo bike trip to the wealthiest part of all Sardinia. Do you know this area? If not — don’t worry, I’ll tell you all about it in the next part.

So don’t forget to sign up for the newsletter and follow me on Instagram — you don’t want to miss what’s coming next!

Cross your boundaries – that’s where the treasure you’re seeking is hidden.

Flying Easterner

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