Gibraltar – Day 5: Crossing the Runway, Monkeys & Tunnels

Another day, another mission — this time I headed to the very southern tip of Spain, towards Gibraltar. Why? Simply because it was “on the way,” close by… and most importantly — it was another territory I could add to my travel list.

Gibraltar is fascinating from a military, historical, and economic point of view, and on top of that, it’s a British territory right in the middle of southern Spain. A tiny “country within a country” that lives by its own rules. So of course — I couldn’t skip it.

How did I get there?

Around 6:30 in the morning, I caught a direct bus from Málaga’s main bus station. The station is small and super straightforward — there’s no chance you’ll get lost, even if you’re running on three coffees or absolutely no sleep.

Important detail: The bus doesn’t go directly into Gibraltar, but to the Spanish town La Línea de la Concepción, which sits right on the border. And from there — you walk in on foot.

First Impressions of La Línea de la Concepción

Around nine in the morning, I got off the bus in La Línea — and honestly? It looked worse than getting off somewhere in Krompachy after ten at night.

Old buildings, a strange vibe, a mix of a port town and a place where time somehow slipped under the carpet. But hey — I didn’t come here to admire the station. I was here to head straight for the border. There was dirt everywhere, puddles, and after the overnight rain the whole place felt a bit like a post-flood bus stop.

But I wasn’t planning to waste time there — La Línea was just a transfer point for the next chapter of my trip. So I walked toward the border, which is literally just a few minutes from the bus station.

Since Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory, you’re no longer in Schengen. So of course: passport control, passport in hand, smile on my face to speed things up. Everything went smoothly and I continued on.

And what did I see in front of me? The Rock of Gibraltar — a massive wall of stone, that iconic silhouette that looks like it grew out of the earth just to remind everyone who historically runs this place.

But before you even get close to it, you have to deal with one of the most bizarre things in this entire territory: To get into Gibraltar, you walk straight across an active airport runway.

The main road and the pedestrian walkway literally cross the runway, and when a plane is about to land or take off, everything shuts down like a train crossing. Traffic stops, barriers come down, and you stand there watching an Airbus blast past your nose. Then the gates go up, and you just keep walking — as if that were the most normal thing ever. You won’t experience this anywhere else.

What Is Gibraltar and Why Is It So Important?

Gibraltar is a small peninsula strategically positioned where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean. And that alone explains everything:
– why it’s militarily important,
– why Britain holds onto it tooth and nail,
– and why Spain still quietly hopes it might return one day.

Military Importance

For centuries, Gibraltar has been one of the most important fortresses in Europe. Inside the rock lies a network of tunnels, bunkers, storage corridors, and defensive positions built primarily by the British military.

During World War II, the United Kingdom used Gibraltar as its main Mediterranean headquarters.
The Rock was literally a “Swiss cheese” full of tunnels — some of which are still open to visitors today.

Political Situation

Gibraltar has its own government, its own parliament, its own laws, and its own identity. But at the same time, it’s still a British territory — complete with British police cars, red phone booths, and the pound sterling as the local currency.

Spain, however, claims Gibraltar as historically its own. That’s why the people of Gibraltar have held two major referendums:

1967 – whether they want to be under Spain or Britain.
Result: 99% voted to stay with Britain.

2002 – whether they agree to joint British–Spanish administration.
Result: almost 99% voted against — they want neither Spain nor shared rule.

The point is simple: They want to remain British, but run their own affairs. A kind of “best of both worlds” model. Britain provides military protection and international representation, but internal matters are handled by Gibraltar itself.

Climbing the Rock — First Mission: Monkeys & Viewpoints

My first goal was to reach the top of the Rock, where Gibraltar’s famous monkeys live. Yes — those monkeys everyone talks about.

Fun fact: These are the only wild monkeys in all of Europe. Specifically, they’re Barbary macaques, who have lived here for hundreds of years and are now an icon of Gibraltar.

According to legend, as long as the monkeys remain on the Rock, the British will never lose Gibraltar — so basically, they’re the hairy guardians of the empire.

Devils Gap Battery – Old-School Defense Point

I first had to cross a bit of the town to reach a place called Devils Gap Battery. It’s one of several historic batteries on the Rock. It once served as a defensive position for the British army, controlling access from the northern side.

You can still see old cannons, fantastic views, and those classic stone paths that look like soldiers were marching on them just yesterday.

The Way Up: Rain, Wind & Irish Immunity

The climb was fine… until a small complication showed up — it started raining. But after living in Ireland for months, rain can’t shake me anymore. I had my umbrella and good mood, so I kept going like a seasoned “survivor.”

What I didn’t know yet didn’t stop me either: At the entrance to the road leading up the Rock, you need to pay an entry ticket to the Upper Rock Nature Reserve.

Luckily, this ticket isn’t just some formality — it gives you access to all museums and historical sites on the Rock, including:
– O’Hara’s Battery
– WWII Tunnels
– Great Siege Tunnels
– St. Michael’s Cave
– Moorish Castle
…basically a whole military-and-nature Disneyland in one place.

With that ticket, I unlocked a world where European history, British stubbornness, and Spanish geography all collide.

Entry to the Nature Reserve & the Start of the Adventure

The full-park ticket costs £25. And honestly? For the number of museums, viewpoints, and historical locations inside, it’s totally worth it. You’ll use it just as much as I did — and in my case, it actually saved me later on (more on that soon).

I started heading up those famous steep Gibraltar steps, the ones that supposedly take you all the way to the top. But… that was exactly when the rain decided to go full power. Within minutes I was soaked like a wet sponge.

After a few hundred meters, I noticed a random cave by the road. I had no idea what it was or whether I could even go in, but I asked if my entry wristband worked there. The answer: “Yes, it does.”

So I was saved — dry, inside a cave, warm, and standing in what looked like a scene from a fantasy movie.

St. Michael’s Cave – The Most Iconic Cave in Gibraltar

In the end, I didn’t end up in some “random” cave at all, but in the most famous one of them all — St. Michael’s Cave. It’s the most iconic cave on the entire Rock, known for its massive chambers, light shows, and centuries-old legends.

In the past, the cave served as a shelter, a hospital, and even a military storage site. Today, it’s basically a natural theatre — literally, because concerts and cultural events are held here.

The Mystery of the Monkeys

People have been debating for years how the Barbary macaques — the only wild monkeys in Europe — ended up in Gibraltar. One of the most famous theories claims that beneath the caves, there were once deep tunnels stretching under the sea to Morocco, through which the monkeys supposedly made their way to the Rock.

There’s no 100% proof, but when you see how deep and vast St. Michael’s Cave is, it doesn’t feel impossible at all.

The Atmosphere Inside

Inside, I felt like I had stepped into another world — warm air, colourful lights everywhere, and even a projection roomshowing a short film about the cave’s history.

But the thing that blew my mind the most was a giant stalactite shaped like an angel. I just stood there, eyes wide, wondering how something like that could form naturally.

When I walked back out, there were souvenir shops and a small restaurant, so I ordered fish & chips — because hey, when you’re on British territory, you have to respect the local folklore. 

O’Hara’s Battery – The Highest Point on the Rock

Once the rain finally stopped, I headed toward my main goal — O’Hara’s Battery, the highest point of the entire Rock. This place used to be one of Gibraltar’s key military defense sites. You’ll find a massive cannon, bunkers, old military rooms, and a view that honestly takes your breath away.

And the best part? In good weather, you can see all the way to Morocco — across the Strait of Gibraltar.
So you’re standing in Europe, looking straight into Africa, and you feel like you’re literally on the edge of two worlds. 

Douglas Path and the Skywalk – walking on glass above the sea

From the cave, I followed the path on the other side of the Rock, which leads to a beautiful viewpoint called Douglas Path.
It’s a great trail that takes you all the way to the famous Skywalk — a glass platform where you literally stand on transparent flooring with nothing beneath you… just air, the cliff, and the ocean.

The view from that side of the Rock is spectacular: you see the open Mediterranean Sea, the long beach on the eastern coast, and the quieter residential part of Gibraltar far away from the usual tourist crowds.

Simply put: one of the top viewpoints in all of Gibraltar.

Viewing Point, monkeys, and their attempts at theft

I continued onward until I reached the Gibraltar Viewing Point, where the cable car from the city arrives. I wanted to get there earlier, but let me tell you — watch out for the monkeys.

These macaques are cute… but they’re also little professional thieves. They’re not afraid of people, they can open zippers, grab plastic bags, pull snacks from the back of your backpack, and run away faster than Usain Bolt asking for a refund.

One monkey even tried to grab the plastic bag I was carrying — and almost ripped it apart. I survived thanks to quick reflexes, adrenaline, and probably the fact that I looked wet, tired and not very appetizing.

Military Heritage Centre and Farringdon Battery

My next stop was the Military Heritage Centre, from where I continued all the way down to Farringdon Battery. This spot is especially cool because of the view of the airport — it’s the perfect place to watch planes land and take off.

The runway is right below you, like a model in front of your eyes, and it’s truly a unique sight. Gibraltar is one of the few places in the world where the runway crosses the main road, so the whole experience feels even more intense.

Great Siege Tunnels – madness carved out by hand

I continued to the Great Siege Tunnels — and that’s a whole different world. The moment you step inside, you suddenly realize what humans were capable of in times when there were no machines, no pneumatic drills, no fancy electric tools.

These tunnels were dug by hand in the late 18th century during the Great Siege of Gibraltar (1779–1783). It was a brutal conflict in which Spain and France tried to take Gibraltar back from the British. The British needed a new defensive system, especially on the steep northern face of the Rock — so they started digging tunnels straight into the mountain.

And here’s the crazy part:

• the tunnels were dug completely by hand, with hammers and iron tools
• workers laboured in extreme, dangerous conditions
• the entire system stretches for hundreds of metres
• it served as a defensive network for cannons that could fire down onto enemy ships

Walking through these corridors and seeing the cannon openings, you realize this wasn’t tourism — this was raw, tough warfare for one of the most strategic pieces of rock in all of Europe.

End of the day: rain, darkness and the battle for dry socks

When I finished all the main spots, things slowly started closing down. Not the whole park, but the entrances to the individual sites, so museums and tunnels were no longer accessible. It was around 6 PM, and I told myself I’d head down into town, grab something to eat and then go to my accommodation.

But Gibraltar clearly wanted to give me one last side quest. Because suddenly — the sky opened.

I sprinted downhill, and the only place to hide was the little shelter by the World War II Tunnels. They were already closed, but at least I stood there for a bit to wait out the worst. Except… the rain wasn’t planning on stopping. It was getting dark, the wind picked up, and I just told myself:

“Screw it, I’m going. Even if I look like a soaked stray dog.”

But walking downhill in a downpour? That’s a sport of its own category.

Water was running down the road like a mini river, my shoes soaked through to the last molecule and the wind blasted through my sleeves like I was wearing paper. Half of the tourists would have turned back — but I kept going. Because, well… I had no other choice.

Accommodation that pissed me off more than a monkey on a rock

I finally arrived at the store, bought something for dinner, and went to my accommodation. There, a surprise awaited me. The room was nice—small, cozy, and with a great view of the Rock of Gibraltar—but the kitchen was off-limits.

The owners simply told me that I couldn’t cook anything there. And I, hungry, wet, exhausted after a long day, with a bag full of cooking supplies… Well, I almost got a twitch in my eye. I wanted to make pasta, but I could only eat things that didn’t require heat. So I gave up, ate a makeshift meal, and went straight to bed.

In the morning, I had a bus back to Malaga, where I planned to spend the whole day — and in the evening, I had another flight.

Where to? You’ll find out in the next part. So don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and subscribe to my newsletter so you don’t miss the continuation of this Spanish trip.

Cross your boundaries – that’s where the treasure you’re seeking is hidden.

Flying Easterner