Carrick-on-Shannon: The Smallest Chapel in Europe

My wandering through the green Irish countryside was gaining momentum, and I already had a few “missions” in mind. One of them led me to the town of Carrick-on-Shannon. But there was one major issue – nothing unsolvable, just incredibly impractical. I’ll get to that in a moment.

First, let me explain how transportation works here, because it’s something that might surprise you more than you’d expect. Based on my experience – outside of Dublin, public transport isn’t anything special. It takes a long time to get anywhere, and if you’re not living near a railway line, get ready to wait. Trains here are neither as frequent nor as connected as we’re used to in Slovakia or elsewhere in Europe. And to be honest? Even Slovak buses are better – they run more often, reach more towns, and have easier transfers.

The main app you’ll absolutely need to download is called TFI – Transport for Ireland. It’s their official website and mobile app where you can check all bus and train connections throughout Ireland. Just be careful – you can’t buy tickets online through the app.

If you want to travel by bus, you’ve got two options – buy a ticket directly from the driver, or if it’s a long-distance route (like Expressway, often mistakenly confused with FlixBus), you can get it via their official website. Just a heads-up: FlixBus doesn’t operate in Ireland, so beware of fake links online.

For short trips within cities or between villages, there’s something called the LEAP card – kind of like a travel top up card, but without a monthly pass. It works on a prepaid system – for example, you top it up with €20, then just tap it when you board the bus, and the fare gets automatically deducted. At first, it didn’t make much sense to me since I wasn’t traveling a lot, but later I found out it’s way cheaper than paying cash for tickets.

For instance, my most frequent route was from Mohill to Carrick-on-Shannon – a one-way ticket from the driver costs €4, return is €7. But with the LEAP card, a one-way trip costs only €2.80, and return is the same. So it’s definitely worth it – especially if you travel often.

If you’re planning to travel by train, it’s best to buy your ticket online – it’s faster and easier than through the app, which tends to crash sometimes. The official Irish Rail website works just fine, and buying a ticket is just a matter of a few clicks – choose where from and where to, pick a date, and pay by card.
If you’re more of a last-minute traveler, you can also buy a ticket at a station kiosk, right with your card. Easy as pie.

First Real Travel Experience in Ireland – Carrick-on-Shannon

My first travel adventure outside of Dublin took me to the capital of County Leitrim – Carrick-on-Shannon. That morning, I had no idea what was coming. I wanted to catch an early bus around 8 AM from my town, Mohill.

But Mohill is about 4 kilometers from where I live, and since I didn’t have a car or a bike yet, I had only one option – my own two feet. So I set off on foot, walking for 45 to 50 minutes at a brisk pace to make it in time. I left around 7 AM, but I had no clue what kind of morning was waiting for me.

It was pitch dark. Not a single streetlight along the whole way – just me, the road, and my phone flashlight lighting up maybe five meters ahead. The wind was blowing, it was cold and silent – that kind of morning when you think, “This is either going to end great… or terribly.”  I made it to the bus stop in one piece – still pitch black, even though it was after 8 AM. It wasn’t until about 40 minutes into the bus ride that the sun finally began to rise.

When people back home told me that “winters in Ireland aren’t really cold,” I believed them. So – no winter boots, just regular sneakers I wore even in summer. And sure, during the day it might be 8 to 10 degrees Celsius, but mornings? That’s a whole different story.

First Impressions?

That day… I seriously regretted my choices. It was early January, the sun hadn’t risen yet, and the roads were covered in frost. Some spots were super slippery, but I kept going – because once you set your mind to something, you finish it, even if your fingers are freezing. 😄

When I finally arrived in Carrick-on-Shannon, I headed straight for the marina – the town sits right on the River Shannon, and there were boats docked everywhere, ready for scenic cruises in summer. The water was shimmering, and even without snow, it felt like a proper Irish winter – quiet and peaceful.

Then I walked into the town centre, where one of the most unique landmarks was waiting for me – one I didn’t even know existed before that day: Costello Memorial Chapel, the smallest chapel in Europe and the second smallest in the world.

It was built in 1879 as a tribute to Mary Josephine Costello, a woman deeply loved by her husband, Edward Costello. It’s actually their final resting place – both are buried inside, in a glass-covered tomb right under the chapel floor. The whole building is only about 4.8 × 3.6 metres, so only a handful of people can fit inside at once. But the atmosphere is powerful – quiet, intimate, like stepping straight into someone’s heart.

Old Jail and Courthouse

On my walk, I passed the Leitrim County Council Arts Office – nothing too special, more like your average cultural office. But right nearby, there was this small clock tower that caught my eye with its simplicity.
It’s actually a memorial to Owen McCann, J.P.C.C., a local judge and civic leader who helped shape the town back in the 19th century. One of those details you’d probably miss if you just walked by – but if you stop and read the plaque, you realize that even small towns have their own stories, heroes, and heartbeat.

A few steps later, I made my way to The Dock – today it’s an art gallery and cultural centre right in the heart of Carrick-on-Shannon. It was still closed that morning, but I came back later. And I’m glad I did – because this place has a pretty fascinating backstory. It used to be the county courthouse, where trials were held. And right next to it was the town jail.

Local stories say there’s a secret underground tunnel connecting the two buildings – a hidden passage where prisoners were escorted straight from their cells to the courtroom, without ever being seen by the public. Today, the place houses a modern gallery with exhibitions by both local and international artists – and the best part? It’s free to enter. Always a win.

Town Park and the Cathedrals

Near The Dock, there are a few interesting sculptures and art installations that greet visitors at the entrance to People’s Park – a small city park perfect for relaxing, sitting on a bench, and just watching life go by.

It’s no Central Park, sure – but it has its charm, especially if you enjoy peace and greenery. On the way there, I noticed a building with a beautiful mosaic wall – honestly, a piece of art on its own. It stood out boldly against the typical grey Irish sky.

When The Dock gallery finally opened, I went inside and spent some time exploring. Entry was free, and although I don’t always “get” modern art, I’ll admit – a few pieces really struck me. You know that feeling when something just resonates, and you don’t even know why? Yeah, that.

Once I regained feeling in my toes, I continued my walk to St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church. A classic Irish stone church with a tall tower and stained-glass windows – the kind you see in every parish town around here. Built in the 19th century, the interior is simple, calm, and welcoming – one of those places where your mind naturally quiets down as soon as you walk in.

Just a few dozen metres away stands St. George’s Church of Ireland – formerly an Anglican church. Today, it serves as a small museum dedicated to the history of County Leitrim. Unfortunately, it was closed when I got there, so I just walked around the graveyard outside. Nothing grand, but an interesting contrast to the Catholic architecture that dominates most of Ireland.

Lunch Time – But Where?

After all that walking, I was seriously starving – so I headed to an Italian restaurant in the town centre called Di Vino. I went for a classic carbonara and a cold Peroni – perfect combo, especially after a freezing day like that. The food was great, I really enjoyed it. A few days later I came back and tried their pizza too – not quite the same as in Italy, but pretty “decent”, as the Irish would say.

One of the most beautiful places to visit in Carrick-on-Shannon is definitely the Riverfront Amenity Park.
It’s a quiet riverside spot where you can take a deep breath, sit on a bench and just watch the water, ducks and swans gently gliding along the surface. From the pier, you get a full view of the riverbank, and if you stare off into the distance long enough, you get that strange feeling – like time has stopped for a moment.

There’s even a small botanical garden in the park, with different kinds of plants and flowers. Since I visited in January, there wasn’t much in bloom, but it still had its charm – that contrast between the winter silence, the damp grass, and the soft murmur of the river flowing by, just like in one of those old Irish ballads.

And just like that, my first small Irish mission came to an end. In the next chapter, I set out for the capital of County Sligo and the surrounding area – this time finally with a bike, which meant I could explore even the more remote corners. If you don’t want to miss this adventure, make sure to subscribe to the newsletter and follow me on Instagram – there are still many stories to come from this rainy, yet beautiful land called Ireland. 

Cross your boundaries – that’s where the treasure you’re seeking is hidden.

Flying Easterner